It is a myth to think you can't achieve length or grow out your kinky hair. While kinky hair types are considered to be very fragile and more prone to breakage, with proper and deliberate care you can grow and maintain your natural curls.
To achieve healthy and flourishing natural curls, we will be sharing a step by step guide which any natural hair Queen can follow to grow and maintain her kinky hair. So buckle up for your longer kinky hair journey.
1. Washing Your Kinky Hair In Twists
Brittle hair is a huge turn off for anyone with kinky hair. It could also get in the way of length retention and weaken your hair strands. Your natural hair shrinks the most when wet, so washing your hair without habitual care, gets your curls all clumped together, which will only result in excessive hair breakage. When you wash your hair in twists, it leaves you with a more accessible scalp for easy cleaning and prevents shrinkage.
What you need to wash your kinky hair in twists
- Shampoo
- Conditioner
How to wash your kinky hair in twists
- Put your hair into two-strand twists, about 10 twists. Make small twists if you have shorter hair and bigger twists if your hair is longer.
- Drench your hair in water.
- Apply the shampoo to your scalp first. Rub it all over your scalp and massage even. Put your fingers in between the twists to wash the scalp underneath it.
- Pull the shampoo through the length of your hair.
- Repeat a second time for a thorough cleansing.
- Rinse out thoroughly.
- Apply conditioner to your hair and massage into your hair and scalp evenly, following the same routine.
- Rinse thoroughly and your hair is now squeaky clean.
2. Finger Detangling Your Kinky Hair
When it comes to detangling your thick natural afro, always use your fingers. The detangling process becomes easier because you are able to feel the knots while using your fingers than with a comb. When you detangle your hair with your fingers, it's a lot easier to unravel the knots gently and prevent excessive hair breakage. Combs tear through the knots resulting in split ends all over your hair. Having to trim your hair so often because of these split ends is a big no-no if you're looking to grow and retain the length of your kinky hair.
What you need to finger detangle kinky hair
- Your fingers
- Conditioner
How to finger detangle kinky hair
- Divide your hair into sections and detangle your hair with your fingers to separate strands.
- Wet your hair and apply the conditioner to a section of hair.
- Start from the bottom, running your fingers through the ends and detangle.
- Go up to the roots and detangle with your fingers, until you're able to slide your fingers through your hair more easily.
Learn how to finger detangle your kinky hair the right way with this video tutorial by @NaturallyTemi:
3. Use Hot Oil Deep Conditioning For Your Kinky Hair
The most important part of your wash day routine is the hot oil deep conditioning process. It involves using essential and natural oils on your hair, paying special attention to the ends. Deep conditioning your hair allows the conditioner to absorb into the hair shafts, and leave your hair feeling moisturized, strengthened and super hydrated. The hot oil deep conditioning is definitely great for your hair.
What you need for hot oil deep conditioning your kinky hair
- Natural/essential oils
- Microwave as a heat source
- Applicator bottle
- Shower cap
How to do the hot oil deep conditioning for your kinky hair
- For this process, you can use all or one of the essential/natural oils. These range from Jojoba oil, coconut oil, olive oil, tea tree oil, or castor oil.
- Wash your hair thoroughly with shampoo.
- Then part into four sections or put them into twists to help distribute the product evenly into your hair.
- Pour the oils into a microwavable dish and microwave for about 30 seconds. You can also heat the oils on a stove with a small pot or pour it into an applicator bottle and heat with hot water. Be sure not to overheat it, so you don't end up burning your scalp.
- Allow the oil to cool off before application.
- Massage the oil gently into your hair and scalp or use the applicator bottle.
- Cover up with a shower cap for about 20 minutes or sit under a hooded dryer. This will allow your hair cuticles to open up while the oil penetrates into the hair, moisturizing it.
- Rinse properly with lukewarm water to remove excess oils. Then apply the leave-in conditioner.
- Style as desired.
@tatenda will guide you on how to go about the hot oil deep conditioning process for your kinky hair:
4. Moisturize Your kinky hair often
Water is your best friend when it comes to moisturizing your kinky hair. Ensure that you immerse your ends in water daily to prevent split ends and retain your hair's length. Your ends are more susceptible to breakage when they are dry, old, and more exposed to the elements. When buying a moisturizing styling product, make sure water is part of its key ingredients. Moisturizers should be used on damp hair before whipping your curls into a protective style.
What you need to moisturize your kinky hair
- Water
- Natural hair oil
- Moisturizer. Use a moisturizer that has water as its key ingredient.
- Detangling brush
How to moisturize your kinky hair
- Spritz water on your hair to refresh your curls.
- Apply any natural hair oil of your choice to your scalp and massage it into your scalp gently, as this will increase blood flow to the scalp and lead to hair growth.
- Divide your hair into smaller sections.
- Apply the moisturizer into a section of hair, and start from the ends and work your way up to the roots, finger detangling your hair in the process.
- Apply your natural hair oil to that section of hair to seal in and lock it in place.
- Comb out with a detangling brush to release shedding hair trapped in the roots and then put it into a twist.
- Repeat for other sections of hair.
@Tyiece shares tips on how to moisturize your kinky hair:
5. Adopt protective styling for your kinky hair
The best way to grow and maintain kinky hair is by using protective styling. Protective styles like braids, twists, natural hair wigs or hair extensions are great for giving your hair a break from constant manipulation, protecting your ends from shredding off so it can grow.
There are a lot of options available for you if you want to adopt protective styling for your kinky hair. You can invest in natural hair wigs that resemble and blend with your natural curl pattern. Or opt for kinky hair extensions or kinky clip ins, these types are easier to install and almost look like you're wearing your own hair. If you are looking to explore more sew - in styles or make your own kinky hair clip-ins, then kinky hair bundles should be your go-to option.
How to install kinky hair extensions
Still undecided on which protective styling method to go, you can watch this tutorial by @kelechi on how to install kinky hair extensions to get started:
6. Wash And Go Method For Kinky Hair
Your curls, coils, and kinks need hydration often. The wash and go method is an excellent way to get water into your hair as much as possible to keep your natural curls hydrated and healthy. A consistent application of this natural hair technique will increase your hydration and moisture levels while keeping those curls happy. Your hair porosity and texture is also a major determinant of how your wash and go process will turn out.
What you need to do a wash and go method on kinky hair
- Sulfate-free shampoo
- Conditioner
- Leave-in conditioner
- Wide-tooth comb
- Shower cap
- Natural hair oil
- Curling custard or styling gel
- Satin/silk scarf
How to do a wash and go method for kinky hair
- Drench your hair completely in water, so your curl pattern begins to show.
- Apply a good portion of shampoo to your scalp. Massage your scalp with your fingers and rinse thoroughly.
- Apply a generous amount of conditioner to your hair. Slick it down the length of your hair from roots to ends.
- Finger detangle during the process or use a wide-tooth comb to gently remove shed hair and knots.
- Cover up with a shower cap and allow the conditioner to sit in your hair for at least 10 minutes, then rinse out the conditioner thoroughly.
- Apply the leave-in conditioner and saturate your hair very well with it. This nurtures your hair and keeps it healthy.
- Massage your favorite natural hair oil throughout all your hair strands and gently wet your hair until it's dripping a little.
- Part your hair into smaller sections and apply a healthy amount of the curling custard or styling gel to your hair, working it down from root to tip and using your fingers to separate the curls.
- Shake your hair vigorously to separate the curls and add volume to your hair.
- Allow airing dry or dry overnight. Never use a hairdryer to dry your hair.
- Pull your hair into a puff and cover securely with a satin/silk scarf to preserve your curls overnight.
- Take off the scarf and spritz your hair with a leave-in conditioner the next day to refresh your curls.
- Then style as desired.
With this video tutorial by @niahope, you will be able to pull off this wash and go method for your kinky hair:
7. Trim Your Kinky Hair Often
If you expect to grow longer kinky hair, you'll need to trim your hair at least twice a year. Don't be scared of getting regular trims. You might think it's counterintuitive, that you have to cut off the new length you've already achieved. But hanging on to damaged ends, or split ends will only block the healthy hair at the roots from growing out. So trim those ends often so you can achieve length and your natural kinks can flourish and look their best.
What you need to trim your natural hair
- A pair of hair shears.
- Wide-tooth comb
- Denman brush
- Fine tooth comb
How to trim your natural hair
- Start with damp hair not wet hair.
- Divide your hair into smaller sections.
- Finger detangle a section of hair.
- Comb your hair with the wide-tooth comb and then the Denman brush also.
- Comb with a fine-tooth comb.
- As soon as you see resistance at the ends, use your hair shears and cut off those ends that knots when you comb. You will notice that your comb glides through your hair when you cut out the damaged ends.
- Twist your hair and then cut off the little tail that's tapering at the end of the twist.
- Repeat for other sections of hair.
Learn how to trim your kinky hair correctly with this tutorial by @natural85:
8. Use Less Heat On Your Kinky Hair
The days of using curling irons or flat irons on your kinky hair are over. Applying too much heat to your hair is damaging to your natural hair. For healthier and longer kinky hair, you'll need to stop drying and styling your hair with heat. You don't even need to curl your hair using heat, instead explore other heatless techniques of achieving defined curls on kinky hair, your hair will be more thankful for that. But if you are still going to apply heat, make sure you use a heat protectant, keep the temperature really low, and use a blow dryer with a comb attachment to avoid hair damage.
9. Cover Your Kinky Hair With A Scarf Or Bonnet Before Bedtime
If you're still sleeping with a cotton pillowcase, it's about time to kick it to the curb sis. Sleeping with a cotton pillowcase will cause friction to your kinky hair and lead to excessive hair breakage. Instead go for a silk/satin scarf, which you would wrap around your hair before sleeping to protect it. However, if you are someone who can't get their scarf to stay in place on their hair while they sleep, you should definitely opt for the satin bonnet, which is a more convenient choice. Or you can simply place a satin/silk scarf over your pillow and still maintain amazing hair the following morning.
What you need to cover up kinky hair with a scarf or bonnet
- Satin/silk scarf
- Bonnet
How to cover up hair with a scarf or bonnet
- Section your hair and put it in big loose twists or simply pull it up in a puff.
- Tie around with a silk or satin scarf and secure properly.
- Or wear a bonnet instead.
10. Maintain A Healthy Lifestyle
Healthy luscious hair is a sign of healthy living. When you live and maintain a healthy and unique lifestyle, it automatically translates to a more healthy-looking hair. You need to learn how to eat healthier meals rich in protein, take vegetables and fruits occasionally. Exercise at least thrice a week, eliminate unnecessary physical or mental stress, and drink plenty of water, and then watch your curls thrive endlessly.
Which of these tips would you be trying out? Which are your favorites? Share them with us below.